Hiking in NZ, on the waves of the sky 🏔️

I'll be honest, before coming to New Zealand, I wasn’t exactly the kind of person who went hiking every weekend. But some childhood memories really stick. I remember those summers when my family and I would go camping in the mountains, sometimes in a van, sometimes in a tent. The 'Lac d’Oô' in the Pyrenees was our playground. We’d spend our days running around, jumping into freezing rivers, building campfires… living like a bunch of Croods.

Coming to New Zealand felt like reconnecting with that feeling of freedom and wild adventure. Out here, the mountains literally call you. Everything’s set up so you can enjoy it safely, well-marked trails, heaps of info available everywhere. It reminded me how powerful simple adventures can be, when you’re just out there, fully in nature.

Even if hiking’s not really your thing, or you’ve never even tried it, trust me, New Zealand is the perfect place to start. You might just surprise yourself and end up wanting more.

✨ Muller Hut – Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park

My very first night alone in the mountains. Cold, wind, avalanches… and the Milky Way above me.

I didn’t sleep a second, but it was intense, raw, unforgettable.

The full story 📖

First night under the southern sky 

This photo? It’s from my very first real hike in New Zealand. Pretty cool, right?

Like I said, that craving for adventure was getting louder. At that point, I had this growing urge to live something intense, a bit wild, a bit uncomfortable too. And the idea of sleeping alone, under the stars, in the mountains… it had been stuck in my head for a while. I wanted to feel what it was like.

Muller Hut ticked all the boxes: a long enough hike to feel properly off the grid, a hut at the top for a bit of safety, and a spot known for its insane views.

I had never camped alone before. I took time to research, get the right gear, let people know. And then one morning: go. It was time. A mix of stress, excitement, and “what the hell am I doing”.

The road to Mount Cook already hits hard: distant mountains, lakes so blue they don’t look real, and this feeling of slowly getting swallowed by the vastness of it all.

The hike kicks off with 2,200 steep steps, nicknamed “the stairway to heaven.” Honestly, the name fits. You gain altitude fast, legs burning, but the views keep you going.

Then the trail gets more technical. Rocks, elevation, a heavy backpack digging into my shoulders… and that little voice still going: “what am I doing ?”

After a few hours, I finally reach the hut. I drop the pack, take a deep breath, and go scout for a camping spot. And then, love at first sight. A little cliffside spot, with direct views over the Hooker Valley, Tasman Lake, the river, and right in front of me: snowy Mount Cook. One of the most beautiful places I’ve ever camped.

Then I head back to the hut for a hot meal and a few rounds of cards, before returning to my “suite” under the stars.

And that’s when the cold hits me. Hard. People at the hut tell me I should stay inside for the night. I hesitate… but no. I came for this. I was set on living that night all the way through.

I get set up, bundled up tight. One survival blanket under me, another over the sleeping bag, a hot water bottle for warmth, and only the tip of my nose sticking out. I’m ready.

Not exactly the most restful night of my life: I was cold, and I was scared.

The night starts in silence. A few stars above me. And then.. an avalanche! The sound snaps me awake. A deep rumble, distant but powerful. Suddenly I feel tiny. Exposed. The wind picks up. Icy. It sneaks into every gap in my setup, shaking the fabric, freezing my toes.

But still, what I’m feeling there, in the cold and the solitude, it’s powerful. Every time I open my eyes, the sky has changed. The stars multiply, and then, there it is. The Milky Way. Massive. Unreal. The moon slowly makes its way across the peaks. Then the clouds roll in, wrapping me up, cutting me off from the sky. I can’t see anything now. Just the sounds: the wind, the creaking of the ground, and again, times to times, another avalanche rumbling far away.

I sleep in bits and pieces. Or rather, I close my eyes and wait for the night to pass. Soaking it all in. My body’s on high alert, but my mind is calm. I’m scared, yeah, but it’s a fear that grounds me. It brings me right here, into the moment. And I feel everything. The cold on my nose, the pressure of the mat against my back, the roaring silence around me.

Then the sky starts to shift. Black turns into the softest blue. Pink and orange slowly join in. The peaks begin to glow. And Mount Cook, standing tall in front of me, lights up in golden yellow.

I sit up, eyes full of light. Right there in the heart of the mountains, I felt I was exactly where I was meant to be. The night was short. Uncomfortable. Intense. But it’ll stay with me as one of the most beautiful I’ve ever had.

Infos & tips 📌

• Hooker Valley Track

Duration: About 1 or 2 hours return, more of a walk than a hike

Difficulty: Easy, one of the most popular tracks in the park

Start: White Horse Hill Campground

Tip: Go for sunrise or sunset, the light is just magical

• Mueller Lake & Mueller Glacier

Duration: Around 20 minutes from the carpark to the lake

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

What to expect: A peaceful spot with epic views over the glacier and the lake, perfect for a short break

• Sealy Tarns Track

Duration: 3 to 5 hours return (yep, it’s the one with 2,200 steps, also known as “the stairway to heaven”)

Difficulty: Moderate to hard

Start: White Horse Hill Campground

• Mueller Hut Track

 Duration: Around 5 hours one way (2.35 km to the hut)

 Difficulty: Hard — steep climb with 1000m elevation gain

 Start: White Horse Hill Campground

 Good to know: Make sure to check in with the Department of Conservation (DOC) in Mount Cook Village before heading out. They'll update you on weather conditions and any warnings.

 Cost: $45 to stay in the hut (booking required), or $15 if you camp with facilities. Wild camping is free 200m from the hut — no facilities, just you and the stars.

• Hidden trails behind Mount Cook Village

Red Tarns Track: A lesser-known trail leading to an epic viewpoint over the valley. Quiet, peaceful, and worth the climb.

Lookout behind the Hermitage: A secret little path with jaw-dropping views over the valley — and barely a soul around.

• Camping at Mount Cook

 White Horse Hill Campground: Super accessible and budget-friendly. $13 to $18 for a tent or a car spot. Plus, it’s the perfect basecamp for all your hikes.

• Sunrise at the Tasman Glacier

Getting there: Take Tasman Valley Road from Mount Cook Village and follow the signs to the Tasman River. You'll get an incredible view of the lake and the glacier from the top.

Tip: If you want that perfect sunrise glacier reflection, head down the rocks on the right — it’s about a 15-minute walk.

• Swimming in the Blue Lakes

  Getting there: From the Tasman Lake carpark, follow the signs for a short hike/walk (2.6 km return) up to the moraine wall — the view over the lakes from there is stunning.

  Difficulty: Easy.

🌌 Birthday night on the Gertrud Saddle – Fiordland National Park

A spontaneous night hike, intense, where every single step mattered. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so present, so in the moment.

And waking up up there, with that view over the fjords… it honestly felt unreal.

The full story 📖

A hike in weightlessness

To celebrate my 26th birthday, I decided to spend the night up at Gertrude Saddle after a chill birthday day with my friend Laet. The plan was simple: reach the top in time for sunset. Classic me : I started late.

I already had two hours of hiking behind me when I realised there was no way I’d make it to the top before nightfall. I still had a solid two hours to go, and the light was fading. Fast.

The trail kept getting more technical as I climbed. Night had fully settled in, and finding the markers became tricky. Everything was wet and slippery, and every single step needed full focus.

Camping before the saddle? Not an option, too risky, rockfall danger in the cirque. Turning back? Even worse. I would’ve gotten lost for sure.

So I kept going. Moving blind, losing the trail now and then, scrambling up wet rocks with the help of fixed ropes, crossing streams in the dark.

The sketchiest moment? A narrow passage: to the right, a rock wall where I had to press my whole body to stay close; in front of me, pitch black; to the left, nothing but void. Even with my headlamp, I couldn’t see the ground. I dropped a stone to check. The echo and bounce chilled me to the bone. There was no way back. Too committed. No space to turn around.

And that’s when it happened.

The danger was so intense that I entered a state of total focus, almost surreal. Every single thing I felt was amplified: the sound of my breathing, the rustle of my clothes, the wind on my skin, every noise around me. I was hyper-aware, like time had slowed down. Every movement mattered. I didn’t even have time to feel scared. It was like my body and mind were in perfect sync. I wasn’t thinking anymore, I was just living, second by second.

When I finally made it back to the main trail, I reached a more stable spot. In front of me stood a wall of rock. So I kept going, often on all fours, climbing without really knowing where I was headed. I’d been walking in moonless darkness for three hours by then.

That’s when I came across a small ledge. Just enough room to pitch my tent. I wasn’t exactly feeling safe, rockfall was still on my mind, and I kept replaying that intense state I had just gone through.

After a short night, the sky slowly began to lighten. I crawled out of my tent… and that’s when I realized. I’d gone way further than I thought. The saddle was below me. I was perched on a rocky ridge, not far from the snow-capped summit.

Below: the cirque, the lake, and in the distance, the fjords of Milford Sound.

The view took my breath away. The colors of the sky added even more magic to this moment out of time. I felt so alive. So grateful to be there, to feel the wind on my face, and the sun slowly warming my skin.

For the first day of my 26th year, I was exactly where I was meant to be.

Infos & tips 📌

Duration & Difficulty: 4 to 8 hours return, 7 km, Hard : steep and technical terrain

Location: Gertrude Valley carpark, 98 km from Te Anau on the Milford Road.

Conditions & Safety: basic navigation and climbing skills. Weather: Conditions can change rapidly, always check the forecast and avalanche risk before heading out. Very dangerous in rainy weather or when the rocks are wet.

Tips: Best in Summer, lil swim in the lake

🪞Where the sky meets the water – Lake Marian

A giant mirror in the heart of the mountains

A peaceful hike to a perfectly still lake. The kind of place where you drop your bag, spend the day, enjoy a good picnic, and cold dive straight into the wild.

Duration & Difficulty: 1h/30 one way, 3 km, easy

Location: Fiordland, from the Lake Marian carpark down the Hollyford Road.

Tips:  Best in the morning, when there aren't many clouds and people.

🧊 The eternal giant – Mount Brewster glacier

A frozen night at the glacier’s feet

 Sleeping at the foot of a giant glacier, frozen in time. The silence, the cold, the raw power of the ice… it was a wild and pure moment.

Duration & Difficulty:  start strait with 3 brutal hour climb to the Brewster Hut, count 2 more hours to the glacier. Beyond the hut the track continues to climb steeply, the track is difficult to follow (follow piles of rocks in the middle of rocks). The terrain can be challenging as the route weaves among bluffs and rock slabs.

Location: Mt Aspiring National Park, neer Haast Township, West Coast.

Conditions & Safety: Navigation and light climbing skills.

Weather: Conditions can change rapidly, always check the forecast! Very dangerous in rainy weather or when rocks are wet. High winds are common.

Tips: Leave early in the morning if you’re doing it as a day hike. Check the wind forecast and avalanche risk if you plan to sleep there.

💫 A room under a thousand stars – Key Summit

When the sky becomes the most beautiful rooftop 

An easy climb to 360° alpine views, mirror tarns, and mossy wonderland vibes.

One of those hikes that feels like stepping into a fantasy book, mossy forests silent peaks, and mirror lakes at the top.

Duration & Difficulty: 2 return, easy.

Location: The Divide car park, on Milford Road , abt 1h drive from Te Anau.

Tips: Go all the way to the top loop for panoramic views over the Hollyford Valley and surrounding peaks. On a clear day it’s stunning. Best light for reflections is early morning or late afternoon.

⛰️ Above the clouds – Kepler Track

A journey between sky and earth

A multi-day loop through alpine ridges and mossy beech forests. Golden grass dancing in the wind, and mornings that feel like floating. Perfect for switch off a few days.

Duration & Difficulty: 3 to 4 days (60 km loop). Moderate to difficult depending on conditions. First day is a bit steep, but after that is pretty allright.

Location: Te Anau - Fiordland National Park

Conditions & Safety: Some exposed sections can be extremely dangerous in bad weather; strong winds, rain, snow.

Tips: The ridgeline section between Luxmore and Iris Burn is absolutely breathtaking and the area around the hut is really worth it for a sunrise ! Try to time it for good weather. Side trip to Luxmore Cave is really worth it as well !

🌉 The bridges hike – Robert’s Point Track

Suspended in Beauty

An easy hike with a wild twist: swing bridges, glacier views, and a tropical vibe. It felt like the jungle, NZ-style.

Few walks around Franz Josef offer glacier views as immersive as Roberts Point Track. At the end of the trail, you don’t just see the glacier, you feel like you’re part of it, right in the heart of the scene.

Duration & Difficulty: 4–5 hours return, moderate, 12 km.

Location: Alex Knob car park, near Fox Glacier, West Coast.

Conditions & Safety: Stream crossings, water levels can rise significantly after rain. Rocks can be slippery so really dandgerous.

Tips: Sure, hiking in good weather is great, but this one had such a special vibe; kind of misty, with low clouds and a bit of rain. It felt magical.

🏖️ Hike, swim, nap, repeat - Abel Tasman Coast Track

4 days of hiking with salty naps and sandy hair

A laid-back coastal adventure where the tides set the pace, golden bays, lush forest, barefoot camps, and ocean breeze naps.

The kind of hike that makes you lose track of time.

Swimming, chilling, and moving with the tides.

Bring a Gillou with you ! :))

Duration & Difficulty: 3 to 5 days, 60 km one way, easy just long

Location: Abel Tasman National Parc, north of the south island.

Conditions & Safety: Check the tide times carefully — some sections are only passable at low tide, and the water rises fast!

Tips: One of the best hikes to slow down and soak it all in. Lay back, enjoy the southern sun, and bring a snorkel, we spotted some rays! For more info, ask the DOC office they're really helpfull.

☕ Coffee with a Volcano – Mt Taranaki

Lil break with view over one of the country's most beautiful peaks.

Left in the dark for a quiet rendezvous with the rising sun.

Just a peaceful moment, sipping coffee by the crater, with clouds drifting below my feet.

Duration & Difficulty: Up 4-5h,down 3h. The first section to the hut is moderate, but the second part up to the crater is steep, slippery, and definitely challenging!

Location: Taranaki region on the west coast of New Zealand's North Island, close to New Plymouth

Conditions & Safety: not recommended in winter

Tips: I caught the sunrise at the top, absolutely worth the early climb. There's also a hut up there, and I highly recommend staying overnight to enjoy the sunset too.

🌋 Landing on Mars – Tongariro Alpine Crossing

A hike on another planet

Lunar colors, streaming craters, and landscapes from somewhere else. Everything up there feels unreal: red craters, neon lakes, fierce winds.

It’s like hiking on Mars, but better, haha.

Duration & Difficulty: 20km one way, from a parking to the other one. 6/7h. Easy.

Location: in the middle of New Zealand's North Island, a few kilometres west of Lake Taupo

Tips: I made the return trip to avoid paying the shuttle, which took me about the same amount of time.

If you took the time to crash here, thank you, truly, for being near.

I hope this journey sparked a flame, to go wander a few trails.

See you soon for new adventures! 💃🏽